Paralyzed in Panama

What was always meant as a brief stop after transiting the canal before heading to the highlands in the north of Panama has become paralysis. At first I rushed to see as much of the city and its environs, seeking out culture, nature, history, and entertainment. Then the breakdowns started – broken equipment, busted health, bad communications, boredom and blackness.

Repairing stuff seemed to override everything in my pitiful mind, as I had completed my shakedown in the Caribbean and all was meant to be tuned to perfection. But my body, and very nearly my will, deserted me.

The virus was overwhelming -I collapsed for a full week, not eating, forcing down fluids, but losing the hydration battle constantly. My strength evaporated, and I became hermit-like aboard Whakaari.

Other cruisers who were then strangers to me, and now good friends, kept an eye on me and offered advice, nourishment and company.

Over the next month my body decided to put itself back together. Each day I would add more exercise into my routine, lists would be written and progressively achieved, enjoyment came to outweigh ache.

Without the help of other boaties I don't think the generator and water maker would still be aboard – I was ready to donate both to the anchorage as mooring dross. I won't bore the reader with the mindless detail that is involved in getting stuff fixed here -suffice to say it seems daunting but eventually it gets done and will soon be forgotten.

Now, nearing the end of my unexpected lay up in Panama, I can see how just “going with the flow” would have made this time even more rewarding.

Panama City is hard to describe – it has many faces, and I was seeing them through listless eyes – however there are many good memories to take away:

Riding my Airnimal bike along the Amador Causeway and Cinta Costerra – the best cycleways I've experienced in a city, and jostling with the forever tooting yellow taxis and Diablo Rojo buses from Hell, and enjoying magical views of the city skyline

My daily ride along the causeway past Gehry's Bio Museum

Diablo Rojos (Red Devils) Rule!- They are supercharged American school buses with plenty of chrome, airbrushing,and drivers proud of their devil-may-care attitude and rules of their own

Hiking in the Soberiana National Park, Parque Metropolitano, Isla Barro Colorados and Punta Culebra (these last two administered by the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute) on the outskirts of the city - seeing monkeys, sloths, deer, all kinds of birds, unusual trees in stunning tropical forest, and magical views of the city skyline

I speak for the trees - Tamarind Monkey in
Parque Metropolitano

Paddleboarding most mornings between 0630 and 0730 round the headland (formed by three islands all joined together by spoil from the original Panama Canal) beneath thousands of Pelican nests and past the ships on anchor awaiting their canal transit, all the while with magical views of the city skyline

A small section of the Pelican Colony - obviously not enough space for everyone going by
 the guano adorning pulpits of cruisers boats 

Wandering around Casco Viajo -the old city, and San Felipe enjoying “Panama Musica!”, beautifully restored buildings (now apartments for the rich or tourist retail amongst tenanted hovels), partying on rooftop bars and, yep, you guessed it – magical views of the city skyline

Plaza Independencia , Casco Veijo

The Folklorico Spectacular in the Teatre Nacional was indeed spectacular - that was a real thrill - and the restored theatre rivals the State Theatre in Sydney

Folklorico Espectacular

Daily thunder, lightning and downpours to make your hair stand on end. Happily I've been able to enjoy the spectacles, get about the boat in the rain gathering water or just luxuriate in an "endless shower" of fresh, not desalinated, water. Others haven't been so lucky, with lightning strikes taking out electrics and navigation gear to the tune of several thousands of dollars.

A squall approaching the anchorage from the city

And, the Thursday Night Beer and Pizzas on the causeway when many in the cruising community get together, and the morning Panama Cruiser's Net, with everyone checking in and sharing something over the radio

Mercado de Marisco - a combination ceviche, big enough for lunch,
 is two bucks, three with a local beer:-)

Fishing boats moored off the Mercado de Marisco

Locally called the "Screw Building"

Buildings awaiting restoration still get some creative attention

I like this shot - life goes on for everyone

Break dancer party at French Point, Casco Veijo

Big SW swell turning the corner into La Playita Anchorage -and I was too ill to ride it :-(

Genset removed, ready for throwing overboard!
Well, I eventually repaired it for around $600. Honda make a perfectly adequate one that sells locally for $100

Now here are some fun guys!

Close encounters at Punta Celubra

Mmm, marshmallows anyone?

The Biodiversity Museum, Amador Causeway and Cityscape from the
Panama Canal bouyage area

City View looking out from Parque Metropolitano

Common Vulture scavenging the Pelican, Frigate and Booby
rookeries

Boobies atop a manmade wall on a tiny guano covered island near Amador,
Panama City in the background

Not your usual mall foodcourt!

Panama Musica! - Take your ear plugs!

At a Rooftop Bar with Francesca (Chilean) and Timo (British)

Dance Groups represented all regions of Panama, such as the Kuna Yala, Darien,
Los Santos, Chiriqui, and Bocas del Toro

Diablo is Big here

Stunning Costumes

Great Choreography

A wee frog! This guy is part of a research project at Barro Colorado
 into why amphibians are going extinct faster than any other group of animals

Yes - its a baobab tree in a tropical jungle!?
The island has a big area of Dry Forest, influenced by
 the marked changes in seasons here

Tinamou mating - quite a show! They're famous for laying bright coloured eggs (on the ground too?) which the females gather into a combined clutch and appoint one male to brood them. The colours help the mums tell which are theirs.

My friend Belkys who I met on a USA Environmental Study Tour in 1992
lives in Panama and is the Research Co-ordinator's Assistant with the
Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute 

Panama City from Ancon Hill

Celebrations on Cinta Costerra for the Presidential Inauguration

And last but not least - getting to know some of the cruising community, and benefiting from their knowledge, experience and companionship. Its an eccentric mix as you would expect, mostly made up of retired couples and single-handers – A few I'd like to mention:

Ben and Marianne on " Guinevere 1" who have been cruising in Central America for 4 or so years. Ben is the happiest, most humorous Canadian I know after Jim Carrie, and Marianne has the most delightful Irish brogue. They took me along on a provisioning spree, shared their Leg of Lamb and fine wine aboard, we swapped assistance and gear, and I gained some great advice about the territory ahead of me. We also made the most of the Soccer World Cup, hitting the local bars for the semis and the final.

Donna of "Nin Tai", a lovely ketch hailing from San Diego that she manages solo and is doing a long period of R and M based in Panama. So she has become very familiar with the city and it's cultural offerings and motivates everyone to get the most out of their time here. She is a very gregarious, and generous person. We shared our Kindle and Movie libraries, and when I was ill her caring eye made sure I didn't fade away quietly on Whakaari 

Skip of "Java Moon" on his way home to San Diego - diagnosing my water maker illness - doesn't look like a good prognosis if his expression is anything to go on!

Ready to fill the tanks - - my dinghy cover doubles a a raincatcher, and has a bit of kiwi ingenuity to connect a hose direct to the tank filler (Not visible in this pic)

Jacques and Edith on "Nave" are a delightful French Canadian couple who are always out & about, and happy to share their time, contacts, etc. Jacque is a master fencer (think swords rapiers foils epees) and Edith used to compete as well. Now they roller blade and put on the occasional dance routine to the wonder of passers-by. Edith was a motivator for my return to fitness. Each morning she would be out on the deck doing her yoga routine, or dinghying to the shore to train on the steep hills, or rowing the dinghy instead of using the motor.

David on his trimaran, an East German now resident in Panama City and a converted sailor. David is by proud confession, a computer nerd, and he readily helps out all us 'late to the craft' cruisers who are having to be more and more computer literate with all the navigational and meteorological resources the computer world offers. He has designed an operating system specifically for cruisers called Navigatrix – A Voyager's Companion, and its fantastic -the ideal replacement for my Windows 8, Yay!

Check it out: http://navigatrix.net/index.php

Dinner aboard Whakaari with Ben , Marianne, and Donna (far right)
Massive Tuna steaks with fresh tomato and pepper salad and grilled plantains,followed by Marianne's lemon meringue, accompanied with Cuban Rum and Sangre de Toro  

More treats in Panama, and mucho mas molas

Leaving Bocas all I could think about was getting to the San Blas archipeligo and the tribal islands of Kuna Yala. Like Cuba it had become a key destination on my shakedown in the Caribbean.

But even en route there were wonderful places to explore, especially the Rio Chagris River, Portobello and Ilsa Grande.

Rio Chagris is the river just north of Colon and the Atlantic entrance to the Panama Canal. It required a bit of daring-do to cross the bar in rough conditions, which wasn't helped by the sight of bleached broken yachts on the shoreline just at the point of no return.

The river was dammed to create Lake Gatun – a major chunk of the Panama isthmus crossing, to supply the water for the canal locks, and produce the hydro power for all the canal's operational needs.

Reminiscent of motor sailing up the Rio Dulce in Guatemala, this was an exquisite way to have a sneak preview of the canal transit ahead of me. But also to experience true Panamanian tropical rainforest in complete isolation., punctuated by the spine-tingling chorus of Howler monkeys and deafening thunderclaps.


Apparently the authorities now send a patrol boat to warn cruisers and fishermen before they release excess water into the river, but there are quite recent tales of yachts being flushed out to sea when they just - opened the control gates!

Portobello is of course a famous Pirate hole, ruined Spanish Forts, and the home of The Black Christ.

I was shocked when making a night-time arrival how many cruising boats are anchored here (and most of them without working anchor lights!) It's a place to hole up while waiting for a canal transit but it seems many get stuck in this sleepy little backwater. The population is mainly of African roots, and there is a Congo music revival happening right now.

Isla Grande is a convenient overnight anchorage before the Kuna Yala, and it is a delight to visit. Popular with Panamanians for weekend getaways, it is bright and resort-like, no cars, and full of quirky budget establishments.

My plan was to spend ten days cruising the archipelego of San Blas, knowing that would be just scratching the surface as there is “an island for every day of the year”.

After clearing in at Porvenir (the Kuna Yala is an autonomous region within Panama , self-administered by the tribal authorities with each island having its own take on matters) it was a matter of ruthlessly deciding which areas to visit and which to leave out. We chose a circuit of the Chichime/Lemmon Cays, the Western then Eastern Holandes, further east to the Coco Banderos, then inshore to the Mola making islands of Rio Sidra and Mormake Tupu, then into the Gulf of San Blas with the possibility of exploring some of the mainland rivers by dinghy.

The Holandes were my favourite, uncrowded (not many deserted, but often only one or two families resident). The water colours, quality of snorkelling, and regular contact with the Kuna people were all highlights. I don't think the sails were used at all, as there was no wind, and the boat took on a very damp smell. Every anchorage was christened with glorious plunges into the water to wash off the sweat and cool down.

As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words, so check out my photos for a glimpse of life in the Kuna Yalas.

After Mormake Tupu the exposure to never-ending canoes of seafood & vege sellers, mola sellers, et al, and the constant warm damp muggy conditions in this, the rainy season, I didn't feel a need to spend any more time in the Kuna Yala. And the enormous amount of plastic trash and beach litter was a sad reminder that even the best intentions of the Kuna can't protect their islands.

Venancio Restrepo (on right) Master Mola Maker of Mormake Tupu
a lovely gentle man and wonderful artist