Costa Rica - Options aplenty

What to do, what to do??

Costa Rica is well established in the ecotourism market, offering environmentally aware visitors everything they could want with more biodiversity than anywhere else on earth of comparable size, more hectares of protected natural areas per capita, and everything from massive marine turtle breeding sites to highly active volcanoes.
Well lucky me! I arrive by yacht and am aiming to climb volcanoes, so if planned right I get to traverse every ecosystem in between.
Time and money have a habit of streamlining things a bit for me too -I have to find somewhere secure yet affordable to leave Whakaari for an extended period of time, maybe up to 4 weeks, to do justice to Coats Rica's natural wonders, and neighbouring Nicaragua's as well (virtually studded with volcanoes). I've never left her on her own that long before so choosing her boatsitters carefully is top priority.

Johnny looked after Whakaari just great in my absence

I go with Coast Rica Yacht Club in Puntarenas rather than my original intention of sailing further to north Nicaragua, and this makes my yacht insurers more comfortable as well, staying well below the hurricane belt and the infamous Papagallo gap winds, especially when the eastern Pacific has being seeing lots of tropical storms this season.
After getting Whakaari settled on an intriguing two boat floating platform mooring in a swift flowing tidal channel, palming off food on the receptionist and hopefully engendering the support of the club's panga drivers to look out for my boat, I re-enter the chaotic world of backpacking on public transport in Central America. I wouldn't have time to venture back south and climb the country's highest volcano Chirripo (3891m) on the Cordillera Talamanca, but could at least explore from coast to mountains in the north and hike some interesting volcanoes, as well as enjoy other ecosystems.







First stop, Monteverde Cloud Forest, which proved to be almost a spiritual experience, hiking the trails of this world famous preserve. The interplay of light and colour, bird song, and water vapour moving through the trees is simply mesmerising, and impossible to record with a point and shoot camera (sadly my Nikon 5000D suffered water damage on my first night in Monteverde during a nocturnal wildlife tour.
Want more info? - http://www.anywherecostarica.com/destinations/monteverde

Second destination, La Fortuna, via a fascinating short cut over winding back roads and Lake Arenal, past wind farms, hydro schemes, and imposing views of Arenal Volcano. A classic conical stratovolcano, Arenal is the youngest and most active in Costa Rica, and has been in near constant eruption since 1968.

Arenal by Night and Day

The volcano summit is closed to visitors but hikes around its flanks are still rewarding. I chose to do this with a backpacker tour that was alot of fun - we ended up soaking in a natural hot river after dark, having volcanic mud exfoliation facials with candles dotted around, and rum drinks complete with ice and limes that were carted in by the guides. Your classic young traveller's activity, and its great to be part of all that bubbly energy and playfulness. Either that, or the mudpack, whatever - I felt years younger afterwards.

Cerro Chato's two summits on the left , Arenal to the right

Burstling with newfound energy, early the next morning I set off on a "strenuous hike" up Cerro Chato, a dormant volcano flanking the SE side of Arenal Volcano. It has been inactive for some 3,500 years, has an elevation of 1140m  and contains a blue-green crater lake that you can now safely swim in.

Contrary to all info I had gathered, the hike wasn't strenuous, and took me an hour and a quarter up not three to four as promised, and less down. The swim was beautifully refreshing, in the company of mating frogs and several young couples (including a circus acrobat from Las Vegas). And at 11am I was back at the trailhead with a bonus half day to look around La Fortuna.

Cerro Chato Crater Lake - a cool 16 degrees C

Third Destination, Rinkon de la Veija , an andesitic complex volcano with nine craters, two of which are very active at present. It has a respectable elevation of 1,916m and last erupted in 1998.

2. 

   A distant view of Rinkon summit, prevented from hiking closer

   

 One of Rinkon's nine craters

After several bus journeys and an expensive taxi ride (along the western edge of Cordillera de Guanacaste) I arrive at a lodge by the same name as the volcano to discover the summit hike is now closed. Making the best of the situation I hike most the park's trails in a day and a half, enjoying isolated natural hot springs, the largest stranglers figs I have ever seen, reasonable large geothermal power plants, and two magic waterfalls, one almost half way to the crater lakes above. 

Making my way north to Nicaragua I stayed a night at Bahia Salinas, close to where I will clear out with Whakaari later. Here is a beautiful wide expanse of beach where Olive Ridley turtles come ashore to nest, and also a Kitesurfer's retreat. The place boasts (on its website) wind every day of the year at a constant 15-20 knots, but when I stayed, hoping to rent some gear and have a play, the kitesurfing part was closed for a month due to poor October winds:-(

Although I spotted three recent nesting areas, and spent a long evening walking the beach hoping to see turtles, all I found was the sad dark and empty holes of poached nests. Its a story in itself but turtle eggs are not only easy food for the many many dogs of Costa Rica, but a delicacy among the people. I later learned that Turtle Conservation people actually buy the eggs from the locals so they can be saved and hatched in artificial nesting area that are guarded. The lucky hatchlings are often a feature of guided turtle tours where clients get to release them and see them safely into the water.
Its a funny new world!
(http://coastalcare.org/2011/07/legalized-poaching-turtles-eggs-and-playa-ostional-costa-rica/)

Blog About Baru

The journey has truly begun! Yesterday I summited Panama's highest volcano, Baru (3478
m) and commenced my project to circumnavigate the Pacific "Ring of Fire", climbing at
least one volcano in each country on the rim.

There's nothing too difficult about climbing Volcan Baru - most people wander up in
sneakers on the road that accesses the greatest array of antennae I've ever seen on one
mountain top. But one can make it a bit more challenging. I managed that in a couple of
ways - taking the least trodden path from Volcan on the western side without a guide and
timing my hike for the middle of the rainy season.

It was an opportunity too good to miss - to do a climb that traversed the mountain, rather
than retracing my steps after a summit as is usually the case. There is a trail only the
locals use, and scant information about it. I found useful tips on SummitPost, and set off
with some map images in my head and a few hastily copied notes. I elected not to hire a
guide as my sources said it wasn't necessary but that the trail was easy to lose in places.
Also I went well-prepared with overnight gear, a change of clothes, extra food, an iPhone
with Google Maps, and an excellent weather forecast.

My day started from Pedregal where I had left Whakaari in a rudimentary dock. That
journey, sailing from the Gulf of Chiriqui inland through incredible tidal waterways I
never dreamed could exist, is a whole story in itself. Anyway, at 8am I was at the road
end setting out for an expected easy hike, with a comfortable camp in the crater before
completing the ascent in time for sunrise and the much talked about views of two oceans.

By midday I was not only four hours into my
day but not much higher on the mountain
after losing the trail and expending precious
energy on a ridge to nowhere. It was a severe
lesson in paying attention and not allowing
 myself to be distracted by the beautiful
sub-alpine flora. I soon learned that keeping
to the poorly marked and little used trail was
simply a matter of looking for litter.
No litter? Go back and find and be back on track.
There wasn't a lot of height gain to be made
on this volcano, at least not like the climbs I
had done in Ecuador and Bolivia last year.
The starting altitude was 1600 meters giving
me only 1900 meters to ascend, so the delayed
start didn't concern me too much.


I continued to stop and enjoy the views back out over Volcan, the many and varied alpine
flowering plants, from huge cacti-like agaves to edelweiss and some very impressive
mistletoes parasitising very Rata-like trees.


By dark I entered the crater through towering natural
rock gates but the last two hours had been a deluge
of driven rain, thunder and lightening, forcing me to
push on without rest stops.
On a section of scree there had been a metal cable laid but I elected not to use it due to the lightening strikes. They were all around me, and frighteningly close.
Over the past two months I've become accustomed to the tropical warmth of Panama. This storm chilled my core.
Once in the crater my urgent task was to find shelter---and fast. I saw some old iron among the rocks that I could use and found that it was covering an old rock bivvy that
someone before me had left lined with tussock grass.
I was in luck!

The main crater (one of seven), my bivvy was right of centre
below a small slip

The next two hours were a slow tedious time of lighting the stove with frozen hands, stripping off wet gear,and warming up. The storm hammered on thru the night requiring continual attention to
the roof to keep it from blowing away and trying to get some sleep. By 4:30 am the storm had passed and the sky was clear and moonlit.







An hour later I set off for the summit taking a direct route up thru the tangled
monkey scrub and was soon standing amidst hundreds of antennae, satellite dishes,
and generator sheds complete with the usual inane grafitti.

Approaching the summit, I could just make out a group of people ahead of me thru the
mist - the mountain now enveloped in cloud. I hadn't seen anyone on the approach but of
course these were the usual people who had hiked the normal route on the 4-wheel drive
track from Boquete. I enjoyed being able to speak English with these backpackers from the USA, France, and Germany.

After they headed on down, I spent some
time waiting for glimpses thru the clouds
to Boca del Toro and Caribbean to the east,
and the Pacific out to the west.








It was a satisfying moment to realize my project had commenced and here was my first volcano summit on the Ring of Fire circumnavigation.





All that remained was to take a few photos when the clouds thinned, and plod the 14 km down
the 4WD track to Boquete,

I found the downhill much more painful
than the ascent, with old knees, a recent
groin strain,and sore feet saying "Enough!"

But as usual, chatting with my new
companions as we made our descent,
and the promise of celebratory drinks
numbed the pain and soon I was resting
up at the Boquete Baru Bar with a cold beer.
Job done!

Paralyzed in Panama

What was always meant as a brief stop after transiting the canal before heading to the highlands in the north of Panama has become paralysis. At first I rushed to see as much of the city and its environs, seeking out culture, nature, history, and entertainment. Then the breakdowns started – broken equipment, busted health, bad communications, boredom and blackness.

Repairing stuff seemed to override everything in my pitiful mind, as I had completed my shakedown in the Caribbean and all was meant to be tuned to perfection. But my body, and very nearly my will, deserted me.

The virus was overwhelming -I collapsed for a full week, not eating, forcing down fluids, but losing the hydration battle constantly. My strength evaporated, and I became hermit-like aboard Whakaari.

Other cruisers who were then strangers to me, and now good friends, kept an eye on me and offered advice, nourishment and company.

Over the next month my body decided to put itself back together. Each day I would add more exercise into my routine, lists would be written and progressively achieved, enjoyment came to outweigh ache.

Without the help of other boaties I don't think the generator and water maker would still be aboard – I was ready to donate both to the anchorage as mooring dross. I won't bore the reader with the mindless detail that is involved in getting stuff fixed here -suffice to say it seems daunting but eventually it gets done and will soon be forgotten.

Now, nearing the end of my unexpected lay up in Panama, I can see how just “going with the flow” would have made this time even more rewarding.

Panama City is hard to describe – it has many faces, and I was seeing them through listless eyes – however there are many good memories to take away:

Riding my Airnimal bike along the Amador Causeway and Cinta Costerra – the best cycleways I've experienced in a city, and jostling with the forever tooting yellow taxis and Diablo Rojo buses from Hell, and enjoying magical views of the city skyline

My daily ride along the causeway past Gehry's Bio Museum

Diablo Rojos (Red Devils) Rule!- They are supercharged American school buses with plenty of chrome, airbrushing,and drivers proud of their devil-may-care attitude and rules of their own

Hiking in the Soberiana National Park, Parque Metropolitano, Isla Barro Colorados and Punta Culebra (these last two administered by the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute) on the outskirts of the city - seeing monkeys, sloths, deer, all kinds of birds, unusual trees in stunning tropical forest, and magical views of the city skyline

I speak for the trees - Tamarind Monkey in
Parque Metropolitano

Paddleboarding most mornings between 0630 and 0730 round the headland (formed by three islands all joined together by spoil from the original Panama Canal) beneath thousands of Pelican nests and past the ships on anchor awaiting their canal transit, all the while with magical views of the city skyline

A small section of the Pelican Colony - obviously not enough space for everyone going by
 the guano adorning pulpits of cruisers boats 

Wandering around Casco Viajo -the old city, and San Felipe enjoying “Panama Musica!”, beautifully restored buildings (now apartments for the rich or tourist retail amongst tenanted hovels), partying on rooftop bars and, yep, you guessed it – magical views of the city skyline

Plaza Independencia , Casco Veijo

The Folklorico Spectacular in the Teatre Nacional was indeed spectacular - that was a real thrill - and the restored theatre rivals the State Theatre in Sydney

Folklorico Espectacular

Daily thunder, lightning and downpours to make your hair stand on end. Happily I've been able to enjoy the spectacles, get about the boat in the rain gathering water or just luxuriate in an "endless shower" of fresh, not desalinated, water. Others haven't been so lucky, with lightning strikes taking out electrics and navigation gear to the tune of several thousands of dollars.

A squall approaching the anchorage from the city

And, the Thursday Night Beer and Pizzas on the causeway when many in the cruising community get together, and the morning Panama Cruiser's Net, with everyone checking in and sharing something over the radio

Mercado de Marisco - a combination ceviche, big enough for lunch,
 is two bucks, three with a local beer:-)

Fishing boats moored off the Mercado de Marisco

Locally called the "Screw Building"

Buildings awaiting restoration still get some creative attention

I like this shot - life goes on for everyone

Break dancer party at French Point, Casco Veijo

Big SW swell turning the corner into La Playita Anchorage -and I was too ill to ride it :-(

Genset removed, ready for throwing overboard!
Well, I eventually repaired it for around $600. Honda make a perfectly adequate one that sells locally for $100

Now here are some fun guys!

Close encounters at Punta Celubra

Mmm, marshmallows anyone?

The Biodiversity Museum, Amador Causeway and Cityscape from the
Panama Canal bouyage area

City View looking out from Parque Metropolitano

Common Vulture scavenging the Pelican, Frigate and Booby
rookeries

Boobies atop a manmade wall on a tiny guano covered island near Amador,
Panama City in the background

Not your usual mall foodcourt!

Panama Musica! - Take your ear plugs!

At a Rooftop Bar with Francesca (Chilean) and Timo (British)

Dance Groups represented all regions of Panama, such as the Kuna Yala, Darien,
Los Santos, Chiriqui, and Bocas del Toro

Diablo is Big here

Stunning Costumes

Great Choreography

A wee frog! This guy is part of a research project at Barro Colorado
 into why amphibians are going extinct faster than any other group of animals

Yes - its a baobab tree in a tropical jungle!?
The island has a big area of Dry Forest, influenced by
 the marked changes in seasons here

Tinamou mating - quite a show! They're famous for laying bright coloured eggs (on the ground too?) which the females gather into a combined clutch and appoint one male to brood them. The colours help the mums tell which are theirs.

My friend Belkys who I met on a USA Environmental Study Tour in 1992
lives in Panama and is the Research Co-ordinator's Assistant with the
Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute 

Panama City from Ancon Hill

Celebrations on Cinta Costerra for the Presidential Inauguration

And last but not least - getting to know some of the cruising community, and benefiting from their knowledge, experience and companionship. Its an eccentric mix as you would expect, mostly made up of retired couples and single-handers – A few I'd like to mention:

Ben and Marianne on " Guinevere 1" who have been cruising in Central America for 4 or so years. Ben is the happiest, most humorous Canadian I know after Jim Carrie, and Marianne has the most delightful Irish brogue. They took me along on a provisioning spree, shared their Leg of Lamb and fine wine aboard, we swapped assistance and gear, and I gained some great advice about the territory ahead of me. We also made the most of the Soccer World Cup, hitting the local bars for the semis and the final.

Donna of "Nin Tai", a lovely ketch hailing from San Diego that she manages solo and is doing a long period of R and M based in Panama. So she has become very familiar with the city and it's cultural offerings and motivates everyone to get the most out of their time here. She is a very gregarious, and generous person. We shared our Kindle and Movie libraries, and when I was ill her caring eye made sure I didn't fade away quietly on Whakaari 

Skip of "Java Moon" on his way home to San Diego - diagnosing my water maker illness - doesn't look like a good prognosis if his expression is anything to go on!

Ready to fill the tanks - - my dinghy cover doubles a a raincatcher, and has a bit of kiwi ingenuity to connect a hose direct to the tank filler (Not visible in this pic)

Jacques and Edith on "Nave" are a delightful French Canadian couple who are always out & about, and happy to share their time, contacts, etc. Jacque is a master fencer (think swords rapiers foils epees) and Edith used to compete as well. Now they roller blade and put on the occasional dance routine to the wonder of passers-by. Edith was a motivator for my return to fitness. Each morning she would be out on the deck doing her yoga routine, or dinghying to the shore to train on the steep hills, or rowing the dinghy instead of using the motor.

David on his trimaran, an East German now resident in Panama City and a converted sailor. David is by proud confession, a computer nerd, and he readily helps out all us 'late to the craft' cruisers who are having to be more and more computer literate with all the navigational and meteorological resources the computer world offers. He has designed an operating system specifically for cruisers called Navigatrix – A Voyager's Companion, and its fantastic -the ideal replacement for my Windows 8, Yay!

Check it out: http://navigatrix.net/index.php

Dinner aboard Whakaari with Ben , Marianne, and Donna (far right)
Massive Tuna steaks with fresh tomato and pepper salad and grilled plantains,followed by Marianne's lemon meringue, accompanied with Cuban Rum and Sangre de Toro